BLINDTASTING Q&A: ID'ING ACIDITY IN FINO SHERRY

Blind tasting Fino Sherry

Q: Dear Rachel,

I am struggling to assess acid, especially where there is residual sugar and high alcohol. For instance when tasting a Fino, the low body and dry style for me always makes the acid stand out. I know Palomino is a low acid grape variety so will write low/medium-, but that is not what I'm tasting. 

In a wine like these, do you have any tips/tricks for identifying the acidity level?

 

A: Thanks for your message. That’s a really good question. 

When we're blind tasting in exam conditions, it's important to remember that our assessment of a wine's acidity, sweetness, or other category is not just about how we perceive the wine, it's a question of recognizing and articulating its underlying qualities. So, as you mention, a wine can taste high in acidity when we know it's technically low in acidity!

When tasting a fortified wine which has very high residual sugar, it definitely becomes more challenging to determine the acidity level. For some, like a great Madeira, the acidity will sing in your mouth despite the sugar. Another clue of higher acidity is that despite the sweetness and alcohol you’re registering, the wine tastes fresh, bright, or balanced.

A sweet wine with a flabby flavour profile or lower acidity can sit heavy on the palate and taste flat, or have overwhelming sweetness or alcohol without balance.

Palomino like you mentioned, is a grape that produces lower acidity wine, and its juice is often adjusted with some tartaric acid before it undergoes fermentation - but Fino can have a bright, refreshing flavour profile, and sometimes a crisp salinity too (as in Manzanilla).

For me, the freshness that could taste like acidity comes from the biological aging/resulting acetaldehyde (AKA it smells distinctly of flor). Grapes for Fino often come from the best sections of albariza soil, plus the flor consumes glycerine, resulting in a lighter body.

With Fino, the flavour from flor will be immediately recognizable on the nose and palate, and you should ask yourself whether it’s there for each pale fortified you taste blind, so you can check in with your palate about whether the acidity is as high as it’s being perceived.

I found the analytical info for Fino and Oloroso from the Consejo website, it was curious to see Oloroso is listed as potentially having higher ranges of TA as it doesn't always taste that way on the palate!

 From the Sherry.Wine website

From the Sherry.Wine website

 From the Sherry.Wine website (check out the TA and Glycerine levels)

From the Sherry.Wine website (check out the TA and Glycerine levels)

Also of interest is this tasting article from Decanter China, in which Fongyee Walker MW suggests tasting a Fino (low acidity, high alcohol) against a Hunter Valley Semillon (high acidity, low alcohol).

WINES FOR VALENTINE'S DAY

valentineswine.jpeg

Need an idea for a new wine to buy for your Valentine? Or a bottle to open with friends? I’ve put together a list of fun options worth checking out.

When I think of wine and Valentine’s, it’s: something sweet... perhaps? Something fizzy, something fun... definitely.

For bubbles, here’s a bottle that’s cheapy-cheap yet super tasty, plus it gets bonus points for its bright red sparkles and being under <$15: Casolari Lambrusco Di Sorbara. This juicy frizzante is Lambrusco from Italy, land of lovers and sparkling red wine. It’s got a hint of sugar, and would be gorgeous in a flute with a raspberry garnish. Perfect for a Galentine’s cocktail too!

If my Valentine were to pour something sweet, I’d ask for a Pedro Ximenez sherry, known in wine shops as ‘PX’ (plus, asking for a bottle of PX is like a secret handshake that tells the wine clerk how cool and knowledgeable you are). It’s sweet stuff, verging on luscious, made from grapes that have have been sun dried to almost raisins before pressing. PX can be paired with very sweet desserts, so don’t worry, it will hold it’s own. It tastes like brown sugar, toffee and caramel deliciousness, so would make a great team with sweet apple pie, sticky toffee pudding and the like. Expect to pay between $15 and $40 for a bottle, depending on the maker. I like the Lustau PX, it’s widely available too.

When you want to say to your Valentine, this is something special and so are you, pull out the Tawny Port. Think of the bright ruby red port you’ve seen before, then mellow it out in cask for 10 or 20 years until it’s smooth, silky and sexy. Think fireside, think warming up after a romantic walk on a chilly beach, or maybe the perfect way to cap off an indulgent meal… The Taylor Fladgate 10 year old Tawny offers an excellent value to flavour ratio. I was just gifted a Ramos Pinto 20 year old Tawny for my birthday, and if you're lucky enough to be my Valentine, you can have a sip! 

Happy Valentine’s Day to you, I hope you’re able to try one of these wines and share with the one you love.